직/편성물 염색
Enzymatic Treatments to Improve the Dyeability of Linen Fabrics: Optimization and Empirical Modeling using Experimental Design Techniques
- 출판일2010.09
- 저자
- 서지사항
- 등록일
2011.06.23
- 조회수
300
Dyeing faults in linen fabrics are common owing to the presence of residual lignin and
pectin. Their elimination is carried out, most commonly, using alkaline methods that can
damage fibers. Here we report a new enzymatic pretreatment that is more selective and
ecological. Accordingly, three enzymes were tested in several concentration combinations:
Viscozyme L, a carbohydrate-enzyme; Pectinex Ultra S-PL, a pectolytic enzyme; and
NovoSample NS51003, a laccase from Aspergillus sp. Runs were settled by a three-factor
Central Composite Design. Afterwards, the samples were dyed using a direct dye (CI Direct
Blue 86) to evaluate the dyeability of the treated fabrics. The lightness variation (ΔL) and
color differences (ΔE) were selected as the design responses and were analyzed using
the response surface methodology. The phloroglucinol assay was applied to confirm the
lignin degradation. Moreover, the results showed that a one-step enzymatic treatment using
the three selected enzymes lead to a higher dye uptake (ΔL = —2.20) and lower color
differences (ΔE = 0.64), compared with the non-treated sample (control: ΔL = 0 and ΔE =
2.732), using a cocktail of the three enzymes in a proportion of 3.9 ml/l of Viscozyme L, 2.34
ml/l of Pectinex Ultra SPL and 4.35ml/l of NS51003 laccase. Under these conditions the linen
fabrics showed an important improvement in color uniformity after dyeing with the selected
direct dye.