[부직포] Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Elastane Fiber Damage during the Sewing of Cotton/Elastane Woven Fabrics 출판일 : 2005.08.01 저자 : Ayca Gurarda, Binnaz Meric, 서지사항 : Textile Research Journal, Volume 75, No.8(2005), 628페이지 등록일 : 2012.01.25 I 조회수 : 105 작성자 : admin |
This paper presents an experimental study of the effects of elastane draw ratio, pre-setting
temperature and finishing process on the penetration forces of a sewing needle and
damage to the elastane fibre during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Seam
strength and seam opening strength of the fabrics were also determined for assessment of
seam performance. In this study three fabric types with three different elastane weft yarn
draw ratios were taken as samples for the experiments. As the first step a pre-setting
process was applied to all three types of fabric at two different temperatures and at the
finishing process half of the samples were treated with silicone and the other half were
washed only. In total, 12 samples having different specifications were obtained. For these
fabrics, nylon/elastane air-covered yarn was used as the weft yarn and cotton yarn as the
warp yarn. Seam strength, seam opening strength, needle penetration forces and “needle
damage index” were determined for these fabric samples. The needle penetration forces
were between 100 and 140 cN and the “needle damage index” values were between 20 and
42%. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope and a scanning electron
microscope to show the elastane fiber damage during the sewing.
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